Author: Mark Dowty

"An Intentional Life"

Walking

I was a little nervous that after 2 days off in Astorga the walking would be tough today. It did indeed start out that way but after about an hour we got in a groove and flew up the mountain to Foncebadon before noon. That’s about 26km (16mi) in about 6hrs.
It was hot but the air up here is nice and the village peaceful.
Last Camino there was one Albergue here. The growth in Camino and the opportunity it has provided have obviously been a boon to the town. There are now 6 Albergues and several restaurants.
-Mark

Bus Pilgrims

Met a wonderful group of women yesterday from SF Bay Area. This lady, Kate, was one of the reasons yesterday was special. They are lead by a Dominican nun whose convent is associated with the school where I once worked…small world. Anyway, they are walking the Camino, being bused to the point at which they finished the previous day and picked up by the bus when they complete their current day, and returned to their hotel each evening.

Today the bus pilgrims had multiplied. I counted at least five different groups. -Cindy

Palas de Rei

Scene from popular bar in Gonzar, interesting way marker, field.

Was not the plan to walk this far today. Twice as far as planned. Albergue La Fuente in Ligonde is closed Saturday and Sunday. Next on the list was full. Looked at a pensíon, but just couldn’t justify the price. I’ll be in Santiago long before I planned. Hmmmm, maybe an overnight to Finesterre (sp?). -Cindy

Happy Anniversary!

Mark and Allison:  28 years ago already!  I do wish Rodney had invited me to join him (lol) at the wedding…that excuse of not knowing me yet doesn’t hold much water..Despite not being there, I do remember you celebrating your special 5th anniversary with us as our son was born on your anniversary!  One of many sacrifices you make for family…love you guys!  

Ken and Nadine:  Happy anniversary to you all also!  You all have had quite a few reasons to partttayyy on this trip…birthdays, anniversaries,…what else????  Lots of fabulous memories…love you guys too!  #blessedtobemarriedintothisfamily

Carmen

I don’t have the option to posts anymore? Wanted to wish Mark and Allison Happy Anniversary and Ken and Nadine as well. There’s was to occur at some time on this pilgrimage.

I’m not sure why but your not the only one. Thank You- Mark

Easy day …but not really fun

We had a really cool Albergue last night. Hammocks, Foot spas, a sand walk to ease the bare feet, etc etc.
Today however we had more road work and honestly although it was only 24km (14.8mi) it was hot and tiring.
Spent some time in thought today with little else to do. Got an answer to wait (the least helpful and most frustrating answer possible for me to hear).

Oh well, wait I will.

-Mark

Be Still

As I accommodate the achey shin splint, how to I spend the time? …and there is a lot of time. First, those who know me, know I am not skilled at “be still”. Today was extraordinarily short, only 3.6 km. I walk more slowly and, Nadine, uphill is easier. Didn’t think I’d ever say that. There are many people to talk with and chatting with people on Camino is so much easier for me. Maybe because people are, in general, more open, or maybe I’m more open. Journaling takes up some time as I am more thoughtful and less statistical right now. Then, there is eating. Food is quite good and sometimes I try different things. Afternoon cerveza is very refreshing after a hot hike. Siesta should be instituted as a regular practice…so nice to catch a few winks before eating dinner which at best is 7pm unless one finds tapas. I should still arrive in Santiago on the 17th, God willing. 😁 -Cindy

The Cathedral in Astorga. Notice all the detail…and people, these are old, old relics that has stood the test of time. Praying for our relationship to stand the test of time…weather from the storms, adversity, self interest, sin, good times, beautiful weather. May we finish this race well to hear ,“ Well done good and faithful servant”. Nadine

Late Comers

I feel so badly for those coming to the Alburgue late in the afternoon and it is full. One day 2 Irishmen came into a small town and there were no rooms available. They had walked 50 km which is an insane amount in one day. After trying all the Alburgues, I suggested that they check the church. The last I saw of them, they were entering the church. I wonder if they found lodging for the night. We haven’t seen them since. Praying for our Irish friends. Nadine

A bit of nothing

Well today was kind of a bust. We walked a lot and made great progress on Camino but it was largely industrial and not nice at all. The problem was we did both sides of Leon (in and out) through the suburbs at both ends. I don’t recommend this route.

Oh well, it’s behind us now and tomorrow we’ll be back in the countryside. On a happy note we’re staying at a cool Albergue in Valverde de la Virgen with hammocks, a foot shower, and a great meal coming.

-Mark

Our alburgue for the night in Foncebadon. Sometimes in Spain you feel like you have walked back in time hundreds of years. I love the simplicity of this place and really don’t want to leave it. Chatted with a man from the Netherlands who is looking to open an alburgue on the Camino primitive. He said he didn’t want to make a fortune but wanted to experience the Camino with those on pilgrimage by providing lodging for them. He had an interesting view of Americans. They have it all and everyone is fat. Isn’t that interesting? We spoke of government, healthcare​, external beauty vs internal beauty. He said all he wants is to be happy. Interesting conversation. Nadine

These pictures…especially of Leon Cathedral at night…make me want to do Camino just for the experience of seeing all this fabulous architecture!  Miss you all and continue to pray for you and your well-being. Love you…Carmen

Started in Rabanal to Monjarín

Started the day by busing to Rabanal, then hiking to Monjarín. Pics: the Way, path marker, ruins outside Foncebadón, me, La Cruz de Ferro, snack wagon unattended and donativo (so nice to come across these when I’m without food and needing a pick me up), the beautiful mountainside.

La Cruz de Ferro is a mountain of burdens left by those who have gone before me. One carries a token from home representing a burden and lays that burden down at the foot of the cross. Some are pictures, stones, I even saw a pen (the kind used with ink pot). As I traveled toward Monjarín my leg let me know it was time to stop. I looked up and there was a taxi – no kidding! God just knows. I was able to join the other lady and we made our way out if the mountains. Glad to be walking again, if shorter distances. -Cindy

Monday night girls

Nadine, some of us are meeting for supper tonight and we’ll save you a seat! So proud of all you have accomplished thus far! Love you and I’m still praying for you daily!!! Mary G.

P.S. Mark, that picture makes a really good 384-piece puzzle. I plugged it into my online jigsaw puzzle maker and assembled it last night. 🙂

. Thanks Mary. I keep your treasure on my pack and every morning I remember that you are praying. Thank you!

Astorga- day 2

Me outside the city walls with Bishop’s Palace within the wall; magnificent door to the cathedral; Roman funeral maker (couldn’t translate the Spanish) from inside the Bishop’s Palace that houses the Museos de los Caminos; last 3 pics – market day in Astorga.

Was on the leg without pack for 4 hours. It’s ok, not great, but will bus to Rabanal tomorrow to hike to La Cruz de Ferro and play the rest by ear. -Cindy

Astorga

Arrived by bus this morning. Leg still painful, so letting it rest. Bus arrived one end of city and hotel at the other. Some pics along the way. 17th century baroque facade of the Ayuntamiento, fabulous doors abound – this on the church St. Francis of Assisi and its bells, statue of perhaps a 20th century pilgrim, Roman ruins. -Cindy

I forgot to sign my name to last message to Ken and Nadine about being halfway. This is Becky. Enjoying this blog very much!

Thanks Becky! Thinking of you often. Wondering how Rocky is doing. Prayed for Brenna and her test on May 31. When is the next one?

Life Changing

Although Camino isn’t magical, anytime or anything that you put this much time and effort into has the potential to change your life. Time is the key.
Today in my personal journal I wrote: “My other ‘real’ life is slowing beginning to pass away”. It’s true. I have been absorbed into the routine of Camino life and its routine, joy and pain has begun to overtake any notion of what was. It’s a really great experience and a great release.
I will look forward to being home, seeing my family and friends and perhaps even getting back to work, but not now and not yet. I’ll just continue to let myself sink deeper into this lovely thing for a while longer.

Festival in Hospital de Órbigo

Me trying to eat this massive gyro-looking thing, trying to get a pic of half the length of the 13th century bridge, entrance of the peregrinos (pilgrims), one of Don Suero’s challengers crossing the bridge, Don Suero, distilling in the 13th century – looks a bit like some Wilkes County stills today. 😁 -Cindy

Mediterranean breakfast

Fresh squeezed OJ, tea with milk, huge piece of toast with tomatoes, ham, and olive oil.

I took a bus to Astorga to rest the leg another night. I hope I can resist walking about the city…oops, already did that upon my arrival at 9am or so. So much to see! 🙂Bummed the chocolate museum is closed today. Only the Cathedral is open today.

Looking at the map, locate Plaza Mayor, I will stay at the Hotel Astvr Plaza.

-Cindy

Albergue Verde in Hospital de Órbigo

Exterior pics, hospitaleria – Yaeli from Israel, meditation & yoga room. Rested very well here. Alejandro, whom I believe owns and lives there looked at the leg and provided an ice bag. He also does massages. No, I didn’t have one.

This albergue, think hippies, commune, vegetarian, and well cared for.

-Cindy

. So groovy! Nadine

Ken and Nadine , So glad to keep in touch through all of the pictures and posts. Praying for you all and cannot wait to hear all about it when you return. Hope that everyone is staying well! Veronica and Ken K.

Thanks K & V. We cover this prayers. Nadine

Why so many religious/church photos?

Well,
1) I like the stories they tell In their art, architecture, stained glass, etc
2) There are a lot of cathedrals in Europe/Spain
3) Most of the treasures are contained in Cathedrals as opposed to museums. At least most older treasures.
4) The history of Spain, and other European countries lies in her churches. In them you can see the fall of Rome, the rise of the Visigoths, the Muslim invasion, the reconquista, the age of kings, the age of monasteries, the renaissance, the reformation, the counter reformation, humanism and even secularism. You can see evidence of wars, and of new worlds explored IF you know what to look for. You can see history…..and I love history.

-Mark

1-2) The Cathedral in Villalcazar (home of the Virgin Blanca). Villalcazar was 2nd only to Santiago as a pilgrim destination in Spain.
3) Roses
4-5) A crèche and a cross at the monastery/Albergue we’re staying in tonight in Carrion de los Condes. Carrion de los Condes translates to “Flesh of Counts” and comes from a historical event where El Cid killed (and left to rot) several Counts from this town who had mistreated/raped his daughters. Ya just got to love history.

-Mark

If this were a race…

Allison and I would now be in last place. Good thing it’s not a race. It’s been so fun to run into Cindy and Nadine and Ken over the last couple weeks. But alas their schedules were always going to force us apart and Allison and I are now farthest East.
Honestly this would have bothered me a bit a few years ago. This Camino has been so much more relaxed and easy because of it. Oddly enough, we’re doing just about the same amount of km each day as last time and perhaps even a bit more.
Today we passed into “unknown territory” the part of the Camino our schedule forced us to skip last time. It’s fun to see things for the first time again.

-Mark

Hospital de Órbigo

I traveled ahead today and am resting at Albergue Verde…think hippies and commune and vegetarian. Today there is a festival in the town celebrating the legend of Don Suero de Quiñones who to free himself of scorned love and regain his honor challenged knights all over Europe to pass over the bridge. He successfully defended against 300 and proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks. Pics to follow when wifi allows.

-Cindy

How was the train ride, Nadine?  From where to where?  talked to Katie yesterday, she is excited to be seeing you fairly soon, love Mom

. Train ride was off Camino to Palencia. We spent ½ the day in this town. We we’re obviously off Camino as there were whispers of “ peregrino” by those around us. Some also took our picture. So funny! Nadine

Bummed

Began the day in some rain which quickly dissipated, to be replaced by a chilly breeze climbing out of Castrojeriz. My left leg feels like it has a shin splint or tendinitis. Stopped for the night rather early and treated myself to a private room and shower.

Was planning to bus ahead tomorrow anyway, so if the leg needs a rest this is a good time.

Happy birthday to my baby brother, Cary! 🍻. -Cindy

The Meseta.

The Meseta is special. It is hot and barren and yet full of beauty. The pilgrim traffic is reduced quite a bit since those that have time constraints often skip this bit (9 days) and as a result of all this, there is more peace.

I love taking to people about “why” they are here. For some this is a physical challenge and others it’s a tourist event. For many this however has deeper meaning and i most enjoy talking to these folks.

Sometimes there reasons are spiritual or religious (a time to draw closer to their creator). Some are just seeking something/anything and they can’t express why.
-Mark

Hontanas.

First day in the Maseta, maybe a little like our plains with rolling hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Pics – a small church along the way, I very much like the houses with flower 🌺 pots attached (so pretty), the Maseta, Mark and Allison.

As Mark said to me after hiking a 30km plus day, a stupid long day – 31.5 km today. Arrived at original destination at 11am and pressed on after having lunch with M&A and Father Joyful from Santa Cruz…ok, after much contemplation about how to describe Joyful – think crack pot, with black robe, full beard, AND barefoot. Another 10km and we reached Hontanas.

Am enjoying company with M & A, but I will slow down again or bus ahead in a few days. -Cindy

Rest Day

Spent Allison’s birthday as a rest day. It was a nice leisurely day in Burgos. Slept in late (for Camino anyway – i.e. past 7am), had a breakfast with eggs (a treat), toured the Cathedral, climbed to the castle, and had dinner with Cindy. All in all a great day celebrating Allison’s birthday in Spain. – Mark

Thinking of you and praying too – Nadine and Ken

Think of you every day!  Happy belated bday Nadine.  Sounds like you are doing well on the journey.  God’s blessings each and every day!  We miss you but look forward to hearing about your adventures.  Will need a special small group meet up to hear your stories.  Stay well!  Charlie and Deborah Reinert

Hey Ken and Nadine,
Thanks to Eric I finally caught up with you!! Great pics and you look like you’re having the time of your life!!! I was thrilled to read that you shared a scripture card. I’ve prayed for that waitress and mostly for you two. Here’s a verse from JD’s Sunday message for your spirit and feet😉 “The Sovereign Lord is my strength; he makes my feet like the feet of a deer, He enables me to go on the heights.” Hab. 3:19 So jump for joy on Nadine’s birthday and on your last Camino step. We miss you so much! Happy Birthday Nadine🎈🎈🎈Love, Gwen

Happy Birthday N!!!

I don’t know how to sing happy birthday with an Australian accent, so……..
We love the pictures and the broad smiles on your faces! I don’t imagine that trekking in the rain could have been that great but skin and clothes will dry in time and consider that God took care of the rinse cycle.
We love you guys, pray for you each morning and I check this site a few times/day.
Donna and I are headed to Fla. on Thursday, hopefully to see our niece graduate from high school. She has moved out again and I will settle for just seeing her, period. Ha!

Love
Pedro and the Missus. #knn

Trying to post but most times will not submit. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions? Please tell Nadine Happy Birthday for tomorrow. Praying. The pictures are just beautiful and fun times by all. Becky J

Not really sure about the posting problems. Sorry. Nadine and Ken have moved on again so I’ll miss her bday too. But I’ll text her for you.

About last night…

As I mentioned, we stayed at Granon last night (met up with Nadine and Ken again ironically).
Granon is another donativo and that alone makes it special. Even more so however are several things they do there including…
Sleeping in the church belfry, preparing meals together, yoga/stretching, communal dinner, meditation/reflection time in the choir of the church after dinner and sleeping on mats (much more comfortable than you are probably thinking).
It is just a very unique and special experience and one that I will be remembered and treasured for a long time.
-Mark

Cindy # group

Cindy – I have not met you, but have heard of you through Mark and Nadine.  I am their sister-in-law.  I am amazed at how brave you are tackling Camino by yourself.  I do not think I could do this walk — especially without the support of familiar friends/family.  Hats off to you!  (but put it back on quickly, as the sun is warm there).  🙂  Blessings and prayers as we follow your journey from Virginia.  Carmen

First and maybe only “cheat”

We woke this morning to a thunderstorm in Logrona. Knowing from our last Camino that the next two days were interesting but more of what we’d already seen Allison and I took advantage of the poor weather to take our one and likely only bus ride a day ahead to Santa Domingo de la Calzada. We walked from there to Granon.

Granon is Special…more later. – Mark

Swedish connect. We just had the most delightful dinner with two Swedish companions on Camino-Ben and Brit. What lovely people. Gwen, I handed over my first card to our server tonight. She probably served 50 people tonight in the place we ate our Pilgrim’s Dinner in the hour we were there. I could tell she was touched. Sometimes those are the ones who work so hard that some would consider menial tasks and their efforts should be noticed. What is it about who will enter the kingdom? Wasn’t it the least of these. All are precious in His sight. I’m loving Camino. Ken is even up at 530 am walking the Camino . What an adventure! Nadine

Observations

Pilgrims have a unique starting walk after a rest, it’s a bit like hobble and waddle. Helma calls it “duck walk”. 😂 Many have sunburned legs, but only the back, since we are walking east to west we have the morning and midday sun behind us and afternoon sun to our left. I am not an exception. Not much sunburn, but definitely a different color on the back. Sunscreen is applied especially well to the backs of legs and arms. -cindy

Grañón.

Along the way to Santo Domingo; bridge leaving Santo Domingo; tonight’s accommodations in the belfry of the church in Gañón at San Juan Bautista. It’s donativo/donation only with communal meal. Feet felt ok today. Each day I evaluate how far I can walk and stop where necessary. Ran into Slovenian gal, Arenata, whom I met some days ago. Funny how some people weave their way into and out of your life. Weather much more bearable today-partly sunny with a lovely breeze. Folks are saying rain is coming along with cooler temps. -Cindy

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