Lavacolla

Breakfast of champions; pics along the way; end of the airport runway. Tomorrow I enter Santiago. Ran into my friend from Quebec at tonight’s albergue. We both have reservations at albergues in Santiago, then, I switch to Hotel Compostela. Plan to take a bus tour to Finnesterre and the coast. We’re cooking at the albergue tonight. 😊 -Cindy

Albergue De Boni

The hospitalero, Boni, is quite a card. I arrived with a man from Austria, David, and a gal from Quebec, Dominicut. We were led to believe that there was a smaller room and a larger room with ten bunks. I listened as he made the same pitch to everyone. Truth is, there are six rooms, the largest with two bunk beds and the smallest with one bunk bed. Interesting character, Boni. The showers are in a separate building from the main albergue. My roommates and I pooled our laundry to use the washer and dryer since it’s raining and nothing will dry. David walked parts of Camino Norte and Primitive. Look forward to seeing his pics over dinner. -Cindy

Salceda

Hoping the sun would break through; beer bottles line the stone wall at this cafe/bar; flowers.

Rain started earlier than yesterday’s weather predicted. Thankful was near to my stopping place today. Another very short walk. With the leg feeling better I am walking as slowly as possible and still feel I’m maintaining a reasonable pace. -Cindy

Melide

Have seen these structures at all the farms, yet no idea their purpose; Sculpture in San Xulián; the Way; another interesting structure whose purpose is a mystery; bridge into Melide.

Melide is bigger than I thought – small city. And it’s market day today. Always makes finding one’s lodging more complicated. Thankfully the fruit lady helped with directions and was very accommodating when I asked her to speak slowly. Then there are the helpful signs advertising the albergue.

Thanks to Jessie for posting pics of my fur babies on FB! Looks like they are well cared for. Thank you everyone! 💕

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-Cindy

Bus Pilgrims

Met a wonderful group of women yesterday from SF Bay Area. This lady, Kate, was one of the reasons yesterday was special. They are lead by a Dominican nun whose convent is associated with the school where I once worked…small world. Anyway, they are walking the Camino, being bused to the point at which they finished the previous day and picked up by the bus when they complete their current day, and returned to their hotel each evening.

Today the bus pilgrims had multiplied. I counted at least five different groups. -Cindy

Palas de Rei

Scene from popular bar in Gonzar, interesting way marker, field.

Was not the plan to walk this far today. Twice as far as planned. Albergue La Fuente in Ligonde is closed Saturday and Sunday. Next on the list was full. Looked at a pensíon, but just couldn’t justify the price. I’ll be in Santiago long before I planned. Hmmmm, maybe an overnight to Finesterre (sp?). -Cindy

Be Still

As I accommodate the achey shin splint, how to I spend the time? …and there is a lot of time. First, those who know me, know I am not skilled at “be still”. Today was extraordinarily short, only 3.6 km. I walk more slowly and, Nadine, uphill is easier. Didn’t think I’d ever say that. There are many people to talk with and chatting with people on Camino is so much easier for me. Maybe because people are, in general, more open, or maybe I’m more open. Journaling takes up some time as I am more thoughtful and less statistical right now. Then, there is eating. Food is quite good and sometimes I try different things. Afternoon cerveza is very refreshing after a hot hike. Siesta should be instituted as a regular practice…so nice to catch a few winks before eating dinner which at best is 7pm unless one finds tapas. I should still arrive in Santiago on the 17th, God willing. 😁 -Cindy

Started in Rabanal to Monjarín

Started the day by busing to Rabanal, then hiking to Monjarín. Pics: the Way, path marker, ruins outside Foncebadón, me, La Cruz de Ferro, snack wagon unattended and donativo (so nice to come across these when I’m without food and needing a pick me up), the beautiful mountainside.

La Cruz de Ferro is a mountain of burdens left by those who have gone before me. One carries a token from home representing a burden and lays that burden down at the foot of the cross. Some are pictures, stones, I even saw a pen (the kind used with ink pot). As I traveled toward Monjarín my leg let me know it was time to stop. I looked up and there was a taxi – no kidding! God just knows. I was able to join the other lady and we made our way out if the mountains. Glad to be walking again, if shorter distances. -Cindy

Astorga- day 2

Me outside the city walls with Bishop’s Palace within the wall; magnificent door to the cathedral; Roman funeral maker (couldn’t translate the Spanish) from inside the Bishop’s Palace that houses the Museos de los Caminos; last 3 pics – market day in Astorga.

Was on the leg without pack for 4 hours. It’s ok, not great, but will bus to Rabanal tomorrow to hike to La Cruz de Ferro and play the rest by ear. -Cindy

Astorga

Arrived by bus this morning. Leg still painful, so letting it rest. Bus arrived one end of city and hotel at the other. Some pics along the way. 17th century baroque facade of the Ayuntamiento, fabulous doors abound – this on the church St. Francis of Assisi and its bells, statue of perhaps a 20th century pilgrim, Roman ruins. -Cindy

Festival in Hospital de Órbigo

Me trying to eat this massive gyro-looking thing, trying to get a pic of half the length of the 13th century bridge, entrance of the peregrinos (pilgrims), one of Don Suero’s challengers crossing the bridge, Don Suero, distilling in the 13th century – looks a bit like some Wilkes County stills today. 😁 -Cindy

Mediterranean breakfast

Fresh squeezed OJ, tea with milk, huge piece of toast with tomatoes, ham, and olive oil.

I took a bus to Astorga to rest the leg another night. I hope I can resist walking about the city…oops, already did that upon my arrival at 9am or so. So much to see! 🙂Bummed the chocolate museum is closed today. Only the Cathedral is open today.

Looking at the map, locate Plaza Mayor, I will stay at the Hotel Astvr Plaza.

-Cindy

Albergue Verde in Hospital de Órbigo

Exterior pics, hospitaleria – Yaeli from Israel, meditation & yoga room. Rested very well here. Alejandro, whom I believe owns and lives there looked at the leg and provided an ice bag. He also does massages. No, I didn’t have one.

This albergue, think hippies, commune, vegetarian, and well cared for.

-Cindy

. So groovy! Nadine

Hospital de Órbigo

I traveled ahead today and am resting at Albergue Verde…think hippies and commune and vegetarian. Today there is a festival in the town celebrating the legend of Don Suero de Quiñones who to free himself of scorned love and regain his honor challenged knights all over Europe to pass over the bridge. He successfully defended against 300 and proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks. Pics to follow when wifi allows.

-Cindy

Bummed

Began the day in some rain which quickly dissipated, to be replaced by a chilly breeze climbing out of Castrojeriz. My left leg feels like it has a shin splint or tendinitis. Stopped for the night rather early and treated myself to a private room and shower.

Was planning to bus ahead tomorrow anyway, so if the leg needs a rest this is a good time.

Happy birthday to my baby brother, Cary! 🍻. -Cindy

Hontanas.

First day in the Maseta, maybe a little like our plains with rolling hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Pics – a small church along the way, I very much like the houses with flower 🌺 pots attached (so pretty), the Maseta, Mark and Allison.

As Mark said to me after hiking a 30km plus day, a stupid long day – 31.5 km today. Arrived at original destination at 11am and pressed on after having lunch with M&A and Father Joyful from Santa Cruz…ok, after much contemplation about how to describe Joyful – think crack pot, with black robe, full beard, AND barefoot. Another 10km and we reached Hontanas.

Am enjoying company with M & A, but I will slow down again or bus ahead in a few days. -Cindy

Observations

Pilgrims have a unique starting walk after a rest, it’s a bit like hobble and waddle. Helma calls it “duck walk”. 😂 Many have sunburned legs, but only the back, since we are walking east to west we have the morning and midday sun behind us and afternoon sun to our left. I am not an exception. Not much sunburn, but definitely a different color on the back. Sunscreen is applied especially well to the backs of legs and arms. -cindy

Grañón.

Along the way to Santo Domingo; bridge leaving Santo Domingo; tonight’s accommodations in the belfry of the church in Gañón at San Juan Bautista. It’s donativo/donation only with communal meal. Feet felt ok today. Each day I evaluate how far I can walk and stop where necessary. Ran into Slovenian gal, Arenata, whom I met some days ago. Funny how some people weave their way into and out of your life. Weather much more bearable today-partly sunny with a lovely breeze. Folks are saying rain is coming along with cooler temps. -Cindy

Nájera

Bused to Nájera. Toured the Monastery of Santa Maria Real with a lovely lady from Holland whom I met on the bus and the queue for the albergue.

There is a soccer match today and the hard core fans are already out. One bar closed for siesta, so they made their way to another. And we thought our sports fans were over the top. The match is at 9:30 pm and they started cheering around 2 pm.

Glad for the day off. Yes, feet have several blisters, but I am managing. Today they are drying out. Knees are in good shape. Back is ok. Rest of the body seems fine.

So what is an average day? Walking very early and with continued heat, probably starting 5am. Breakfast along the way usually tea and toast or pastry. A couple rest stops, one that will include lunch either purchased the day before or at a bar/cafe enroute. Trying to arrive by 1pm at that day’s stop as albergues fill up. Shower, laundry, rest, dinner. Early bedtime if possible. I must admit feeling a bit of a competition for a place to sleep. -Cindy

On the way to Los Arcos

Cross in the chapel at the monastery; bodegas Irache – the essence of the sign is that one can fortify oneself for the journey ahead by drinking the wine; Villa Mayor Monjardín; music along the way; near Los Arcos

Weather again extremely hot, near 90, but there was a more steady breeze, not that a breeze was much good without shade, and there isn’t any. I really understand the concept of siesta. Staying at Casa Abuela.

Awaiting the opening of the Pharmacia. Needs bandages, not Compeed as the blisters need to dry out. Getting on a bus tomorrow possibly to Najerra. I’ll know for sure when I arrive. I will miss Helma. 😢 -Cindy

Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina
Pics: sunrise over Pamplona, statue is medieval pilgrims at Alto del Perdón; descent from there – no training can prepare one for this terrain; field outside Óbanos; pilgrim statue at entrance to Puente La Reina; bridge over the Arga River on the western side of Puente La Reina.

Today was quite hot. Helma and I are sitting in the shade at Bar Aloa having beer for me, coffee and cigarette for Helma. We toured the city after showering and laundry (washing machine – something I’ll indulge). Eating paella tonight. Staying at Estrella Guía, small, 12 beds. Unable to stay at Puente – all beds reserved. Even Helma reserved her bed for tonight.

– Cindy

Larrasoaña to Cizur Menor
Pics: the gang at the albergue last night: Terry, Helma, me, Sarah, Clara; Jesús, the albergue owner; bridge in Larrasoaña; Camino markings; entrance to albergue Mirabel Roncal; me buying Compeed (for blisters) from a vending machine. Currently, having beers and tapas with new friends from Vancouver, Luxembourg, and Australia. Feet are tired and I have a bad blister in bottom of pinky toe. Life is good.

-Cindy

Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

Long day today, 26 kilometers. At noon in Zubiri my body was ready to move on another 5.3 km. The last two kilometers were tough. Gorgeous clear sunshine. Grateful the aerosol sun screen went through airport security.

The Way – its construction and materials are as diverse as the people sojourning. Many pilgrims from around the world. My cubicle mates last night were from Germany and Italy. Enrique set his goal to be in Pamplona today…almost 40 km. As I arrived in Larrasoaña I was joined by Terry from Taiwan. We were done walking and chose Hostel Bide Ederra…clean and small. Looking forward to dinner and an early night. Also met Helma from Holland.- Cindy

Arrived in Roncesvalles
It’s been a long day. Not even sure how many hours I’ve been awake…only dozing on the plane and then, the train. Met some lovely folks in Madrid who were on the same flight as me. They’re starting in Astorga. But one of them spoke fluent Spanish, helping me get to the correct metro platform to the Puerta Atocha train station. Then, another man on the metro showed me how to read the train ticket and to wait until the departure was posted on the board at the station. God’s provision. I met two ladies getting off the train in Pamplona and we shared a taxi to Roncesvalles. The albergue fills up at 4pm generally. Lots of pilgrims. I’m off to explore -Cindy .

Blank slate

Each of us awakens with an idea of what the day might look like. We are creatures of habit and routine. We can “see” how the day, week, month might look. As I practiced yoga this week an intriguing thought crossed my mind. Actually, it’s more a reality than just a thought. Shortly, I embark on a journey where I no longer “see” each day. No routine, no pre-arranged place to sleep, no idea where or what I’ll eat…no plan. What crossed my mind was my life would soon simply be a blank slate, truly living in the present moment. –Cindy