Lavacolla

Breakfast of champions; pics along the way; end of the airport runway. Tomorrow I enter Santiago. Ran into my friend from Quebec at tonight’s albergue. We both have reservations at albergues in Santiago, then, I switch to Hotel Compostela. Plan to take a bus tour to Finnesterre and the coast. We’re cooking at the albergue tonight. 😊 -Cindy

Shocking!!

Well that was exciting. Went 20.3mi today and didn’t feel it. Was too focused on dodging the hail and lightening bolts. Seriously, it was a pretty spectacular storm here in the mountains before O’Cebriero.

Got totally soaked and laughed at the insanity of hiking in this weather like it was something quite normal.

Had a great day overall.

-Mark

Albergue De Boni

The hospitalero, Boni, is quite a card. I arrived with a man from Austria, David, and a gal from Quebec, Dominicut. We were led to believe that there was a smaller room and a larger room with ten bunks. I listened as he made the same pitch to everyone. Truth is, there are six rooms, the largest with two bunk beds and the smallest with one bunk bed. Interesting character, Boni. The showers are in a separate building from the main albergue. My roommates and I pooled our laundry to use the washer and dryer since it’s raining and nothing will dry. David walked parts of Camino Norte and Primitive. Look forward to seeing his pics over dinner. -Cindy

Salceda

Hoping the sun would break through; beer bottles line the stone wall at this cafe/bar; flowers.

Rain started earlier than yesterday’s weather predicted. Thankful was near to my stopping place today. Another very short walk. With the leg feeling better I am walking as slowly as possible and still feel I’m maintaining a reasonable pace. -Cindy

Melide

Have seen these structures at all the farms, yet no idea their purpose; Sculpture in San Xulián; the Way; another interesting structure whose purpose is a mystery; bridge into Melide.

Melide is bigger than I thought – small city. And it’s market day today. Always makes finding one’s lodging more complicated. Thankfully the fruit lady helped with directions and was very accommodating when I asked her to speak slowly. Then there are the helpful signs advertising the albergue.

Thanks to Jessie for posting pics of my fur babies on FB! Looks like they are well cared for. Thank you everyone! 💕

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-Cindy

Walking

I was a little nervous that after 2 days off in Astorga the walking would be tough today. It did indeed start out that way but after about an hour we got in a groove and flew up the mountain to Foncebadon before noon. That’s about 26km (16mi) in about 6hrs.
It was hot but the air up here is nice and the village peaceful.
Last Camino there was one Albergue here. The growth in Camino and the opportunity it has provided have obviously been a boon to the town. There are now 6 Albergues and several restaurants.
-Mark

Bus Pilgrims

Met a wonderful group of women yesterday from SF Bay Area. This lady, Kate, was one of the reasons yesterday was special. They are lead by a Dominican nun whose convent is associated with the school where I once worked…small world. Anyway, they are walking the Camino, being bused to the point at which they finished the previous day and picked up by the bus when they complete their current day, and returned to their hotel each evening.

Today the bus pilgrims had multiplied. I counted at least five different groups. -Cindy

Palas de Rei

Scene from popular bar in Gonzar, interesting way marker, field.

Was not the plan to walk this far today. Twice as far as planned. Albergue La Fuente in Ligonde is closed Saturday and Sunday. Next on the list was full. Looked at a pensíon, but just couldn’t justify the price. I’ll be in Santiago long before I planned. Hmmmm, maybe an overnight to Finesterre (sp?). -Cindy

Easy day …but not really fun

We had a really cool Albergue last night. Hammocks, Foot spas, a sand walk to ease the bare feet, etc etc.
Today however we had more road work and honestly although it was only 24km (14.8mi) it was hot and tiring.
Spent some time in thought today with little else to do. Got an answer to wait (the least helpful and most frustrating answer possible for me to hear).

Oh well, wait I will.

-Mark

Be Still

As I accommodate the achey shin splint, how to I spend the time? …and there is a lot of time. First, those who know me, know I am not skilled at “be still”. Today was extraordinarily short, only 3.6 km. I walk more slowly and, Nadine, uphill is easier. Didn’t think I’d ever say that. There are many people to talk with and chatting with people on Camino is so much easier for me. Maybe because people are, in general, more open, or maybe I’m more open. Journaling takes up some time as I am more thoughtful and less statistical right now. Then, there is eating. Food is quite good and sometimes I try different things. Afternoon cerveza is very refreshing after a hot hike. Siesta should be instituted as a regular practice…so nice to catch a few winks before eating dinner which at best is 7pm unless one finds tapas. I should still arrive in Santiago on the 17th, God willing. 😁 -Cindy

The Cathedral in Astorga. Notice all the detail…and people, these are old, old relics that has stood the test of time. Praying for our relationship to stand the test of time…weather from the storms, adversity, self interest, sin, good times, beautiful weather. May we finish this race well to hear ,“ Well done good and faithful servant”. Nadine

A bit of nothing

Well today was kind of a bust. We walked a lot and made great progress on Camino but it was largely industrial and not nice at all. The problem was we did both sides of Leon (in and out) through the suburbs at both ends. I don’t recommend this route.

Oh well, it’s behind us now and tomorrow we’ll be back in the countryside. On a happy note we’re staying at a cool Albergue in Valverde de la Virgen with hammocks, a foot shower, and a great meal coming.

-Mark

Our alburgue for the night in Foncebadon. Sometimes in Spain you feel like you have walked back in time hundreds of years. I love the simplicity of this place and really don’t want to leave it. Chatted with a man from the Netherlands who is looking to open an alburgue on the Camino primitive. He said he didn’t want to make a fortune but wanted to experience the Camino with those on pilgrimage by providing lodging for them. He had an interesting view of Americans. They have it all and everyone is fat. Isn’t that interesting? We spoke of government, healthcare​, external beauty vs internal beauty. He said all he wants is to be happy. Interesting conversation. Nadine

Started in Rabanal to Monjarín

Started the day by busing to Rabanal, then hiking to Monjarín. Pics: the Way, path marker, ruins outside Foncebadón, me, La Cruz de Ferro, snack wagon unattended and donativo (so nice to come across these when I’m without food and needing a pick me up), the beautiful mountainside.

La Cruz de Ferro is a mountain of burdens left by those who have gone before me. One carries a token from home representing a burden and lays that burden down at the foot of the cross. Some are pictures, stones, I even saw a pen (the kind used with ink pot). As I traveled toward Monjarín my leg let me know it was time to stop. I looked up and there was a taxi – no kidding! God just knows. I was able to join the other lady and we made our way out if the mountains. Glad to be walking again, if shorter distances. -Cindy

Astorga- day 2

Me outside the city walls with Bishop’s Palace within the wall; magnificent door to the cathedral; Roman funeral maker (couldn’t translate the Spanish) from inside the Bishop’s Palace that houses the Museos de los Caminos; last 3 pics – market day in Astorga.

Was on the leg without pack for 4 hours. It’s ok, not great, but will bus to Rabanal tomorrow to hike to La Cruz de Ferro and play the rest by ear. -Cindy

Astorga

Arrived by bus this morning. Leg still painful, so letting it rest. Bus arrived one end of city and hotel at the other. Some pics along the way. 17th century baroque facade of the Ayuntamiento, fabulous doors abound – this on the church St. Francis of Assisi and its bells, statue of perhaps a 20th century pilgrim, Roman ruins. -Cindy

Festival in Hospital de Órbigo

Me trying to eat this massive gyro-looking thing, trying to get a pic of half the length of the 13th century bridge, entrance of the peregrinos (pilgrims), one of Don Suero’s challengers crossing the bridge, Don Suero, distilling in the 13th century – looks a bit like some Wilkes County stills today. 😁 -Cindy

Mediterranean breakfast

Fresh squeezed OJ, tea with milk, huge piece of toast with tomatoes, ham, and olive oil.

I took a bus to Astorga to rest the leg another night. I hope I can resist walking about the city…oops, already did that upon my arrival at 9am or so. So much to see! 🙂Bummed the chocolate museum is closed today. Only the Cathedral is open today.

Looking at the map, locate Plaza Mayor, I will stay at the Hotel Astvr Plaza.

-Cindy

Albergue Verde in Hospital de Órbigo

Exterior pics, hospitaleria – Yaeli from Israel, meditation & yoga room. Rested very well here. Alejandro, whom I believe owns and lives there looked at the leg and provided an ice bag. He also does massages. No, I didn’t have one.

This albergue, think hippies, commune, vegetarian, and well cared for.

-Cindy

. So groovy! Nadine

Why so many religious/church photos?

Well,
1) I like the stories they tell In their art, architecture, stained glass, etc
2) There are a lot of cathedrals in Europe/Spain
3) Most of the treasures are contained in Cathedrals as opposed to museums. At least most older treasures.
4) The history of Spain, and other European countries lies in her churches. In them you can see the fall of Rome, the rise of the Visigoths, the Muslim invasion, the reconquista, the age of kings, the age of monasteries, the renaissance, the reformation, the counter reformation, humanism and even secularism. You can see evidence of wars, and of new worlds explored IF you know what to look for. You can see history…..and I love history.

-Mark

If this were a race…

Allison and I would now be in last place. Good thing it’s not a race. It’s been so fun to run into Cindy and Nadine and Ken over the last couple weeks. But alas their schedules were always going to force us apart and Allison and I are now farthest East.
Honestly this would have bothered me a bit a few years ago. This Camino has been so much more relaxed and easy because of it. Oddly enough, we’re doing just about the same amount of km each day as last time and perhaps even a bit more.
Today we passed into “unknown territory” the part of the Camino our schedule forced us to skip last time. It’s fun to see things for the first time again.

-Mark

Hospital de Órbigo

I traveled ahead today and am resting at Albergue Verde…think hippies and commune and vegetarian. Today there is a festival in the town celebrating the legend of Don Suero de Quiñones who to free himself of scorned love and regain his honor challenged knights all over Europe to pass over the bridge. He successfully defended against 300 and proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks. Pics to follow when wifi allows.

-Cindy

How was the train ride, Nadine?  From where to where?  talked to Katie yesterday, she is excited to be seeing you fairly soon, love Mom

. Train ride was off Camino to Palencia. We spent ½ the day in this town. We we’re obviously off Camino as there were whispers of “ peregrino” by those around us. Some also took our picture. So funny! Nadine

Bummed

Began the day in some rain which quickly dissipated, to be replaced by a chilly breeze climbing out of Castrojeriz. My left leg feels like it has a shin splint or tendinitis. Stopped for the night rather early and treated myself to a private room and shower.

Was planning to bus ahead tomorrow anyway, so if the leg needs a rest this is a good time.

Happy birthday to my baby brother, Cary! 🍻. -Cindy

The Meseta.

The Meseta is special. It is hot and barren and yet full of beauty. The pilgrim traffic is reduced quite a bit since those that have time constraints often skip this bit (9 days) and as a result of all this, there is more peace.

I love taking to people about “why” they are here. For some this is a physical challenge and others it’s a tourist event. For many this however has deeper meaning and i most enjoy talking to these folks.

Sometimes there reasons are spiritual or religious (a time to draw closer to their creator). Some are just seeking something/anything and they can’t express why.
-Mark

Hontanas.

First day in the Maseta, maybe a little like our plains with rolling hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Pics – a small church along the way, I very much like the houses with flower 🌺 pots attached (so pretty), the Maseta, Mark and Allison.

As Mark said to me after hiking a 30km plus day, a stupid long day – 31.5 km today. Arrived at original destination at 11am and pressed on after having lunch with M&A and Father Joyful from Santa Cruz…ok, after much contemplation about how to describe Joyful – think crack pot, with black robe, full beard, AND barefoot. Another 10km and we reached Hontanas.

Am enjoying company with M & A, but I will slow down again or bus ahead in a few days. -Cindy

Rest Day

Spent Allison’s birthday as a rest day. It was a nice leisurely day in Burgos. Slept in late (for Camino anyway – i.e. past 7am), had a breakfast with eggs (a treat), toured the Cathedral, climbed to the castle, and had dinner with Cindy. All in all a great day celebrating Allison’s birthday in Spain. – Mark

About last night…

As I mentioned, we stayed at Granon last night (met up with Nadine and Ken again ironically).
Granon is another donativo and that alone makes it special. Even more so however are several things they do there including…
Sleeping in the church belfry, preparing meals together, yoga/stretching, communal dinner, meditation/reflection time in the choir of the church after dinner and sleeping on mats (much more comfortable than you are probably thinking).
It is just a very unique and special experience and one that I will be remembered and treasured for a long time.
-Mark

First and maybe only “cheat”

We woke this morning to a thunderstorm in Logrona. Knowing from our last Camino that the next two days were interesting but more of what we’d already seen Allison and I took advantage of the poor weather to take our one and likely only bus ride a day ahead to Santa Domingo de la Calzada. We walked from there to Granon.

Granon is Special…more later. – Mark

Swedish connect. We just had the most delightful dinner with two Swedish companions on Camino-Ben and Brit. What lovely people. Gwen, I handed over my first card to our server tonight. She probably served 50 people tonight in the place we ate our Pilgrim’s Dinner in the hour we were there. I could tell she was touched. Sometimes those are the ones who work so hard that some would consider menial tasks and their efforts should be noticed. What is it about who will enter the kingdom? Wasn’t it the least of these. All are precious in His sight. I’m loving Camino. Ken is even up at 530 am walking the Camino . What an adventure! Nadine

Grañón.

Along the way to Santo Domingo; bridge leaving Santo Domingo; tonight’s accommodations in the belfry of the church in Gañón at San Juan Bautista. It’s donativo/donation only with communal meal. Feet felt ok today. Each day I evaluate how far I can walk and stop where necessary. Ran into Slovenian gal, Arenata, whom I met some days ago. Funny how some people weave their way into and out of your life. Weather much more bearable today-partly sunny with a lovely breeze. Folks are saying rain is coming along with cooler temps. -Cindy

Stupid-Long Day

Well, Allison and I had our adventures getting up at 5am and starting out in the dark and cool air. We began along Roman roads, took an alternate (longer and more countryside) route around Estella, stayed a bit too long at the Bodegas Irache (winery), walked to our destination only find it full. That left us with one choice…walk another 12km to Los Arcos. That’s a 36+km (>22.4mi) day in the hot sun.
Too long but we scraped by without blisters.
We are beat though and treating ourselves to. Private pension for the night.

More later
-Mark

Nájera

Bused to Nájera. Toured the Monastery of Santa Maria Real with a lovely lady from Holland whom I met on the bus and the queue for the albergue.

There is a soccer match today and the hard core fans are already out. One bar closed for siesta, so they made their way to another. And we thought our sports fans were over the top. The match is at 9:30 pm and they started cheering around 2 pm.

Glad for the day off. Yes, feet have several blisters, but I am managing. Today they are drying out. Knees are in good shape. Back is ok. Rest of the body seems fine.

So what is an average day? Walking very early and with continued heat, probably starting 5am. Breakfast along the way usually tea and toast or pastry. A couple rest stops, one that will include lunch either purchased the day before or at a bar/cafe enroute. Trying to arrive by 1pm at that day’s stop as albergues fill up. Shower, laundry, rest, dinner. Early bedtime if possible. I must admit feeling a bit of a competition for a place to sleep. -Cindy

Traveled today from Zariquiegui too the Pilgrim’s monument, Alto del Person, through beautiful Puente La Reina with it’s Queen’s Bridge. Dona Major,. Wife if Sancho III had this picturesque bridge built to provide safe transport of medieval Pilgrim’s. We purchased wonderful fruit, some olive chips…yummy and a replacement water bottle. We meet up with Mark and Allison and walked with them to their stopping point. Ken and I continued for another 6 km finishing our longest day of 28 km. Long day. Ken and I will spend the night in separate areas as this is a segregated Alburgue. Neither once of us are happy about the arrangements but couldn’t walk the additional 8.5 km to the next town.
Nadine

Tres anos pasada

I think that’s about right for “3 years ago”…Allison and I had to halt our Camino for a day because she had so many blisters. We’re blessed that this year we’ve both survived with no blisters so far and that is a big relief. I’m happy for Allison.

What’s the difference. That’s hard to say. It may be the different shoes, better socks, more socks, foot goo, better discipline, the result of many prayers or just good fortune (likely a combination of all of the above).

I am having some trouble with my back muscles and knees, but it’s minor so far and manageable.

The people experience on Camino is awesome as we’ve come to expect. Everyone is quite giving, generous and caring.

-More on that later.

On the way to Los Arcos

Cross in the chapel at the monastery; bodegas Irache – the essence of the sign is that one can fortify oneself for the journey ahead by drinking the wine; Villa Mayor Monjardín; music along the way; near Los Arcos

Weather again extremely hot, near 90, but there was a more steady breeze, not that a breeze was much good without shade, and there isn’t any. I really understand the concept of siesta. Staying at Casa Abuela.

Awaiting the opening of the Pharmacia. Needs bandages, not Compeed as the blisters need to dry out. Getting on a bus tomorrow possibly to Najerra. I’ll know for sure when I arrive. I will miss Helma. 😢 -Cindy

Taking it Easy

After a wonderful night last night and waking up to a soft Gregorian chant at the refugio this morning we headed to and through Pamplona ending the day after only 13.5km – “slackers”- I know right! It really was an easy day.
This time three years ago Allison had several blisters and was beginning to struggle. I’m happy to say we are both blister-free so far. Life is good.

All I all it’s been a relaxing day even though Allison was interviewed for a “women on Camino” blog and Allison and I were interviewed for a Finnish students Master’s thesis on people’s approaches to Spirituality on the Camino.

Nadine and Ken have gone on ahead. Bye guys!

-Mark