Lavacolla
Breakfast of champions; pics along the way; end of the airport runway. Tomorrow I enter Santiago. Ran into my friend from Quebec at tonight’s albergue. We both have reservations at albergues in Santiago, then, I switch to Hotel Compostela. Plan to take a bus tour to Finnesterre and the coast. We’re cooking at the albergue tonight. 😊 -Cindy
Campus crusade Alburgue..sweet people who knew of The Summit. The group serving this week we’re from a Baptist Church in Tennessee. Great walk today. Lots of thought and conversation with God today on Camino. Nadine
More pics. Nadine
Along the way. Interesting cross with drawings. Nadine
Reached 100 km mark . it rained all day but we kept dry! We met a South Korean family with a 12, 7 and 4 year old in tow. Anyone can travel Camino! Nadine
Sugarcane, cherries, peaches, and grapes. I love the Bierzo region. -Mark
1) Momentarily sheltering from the hail.
2) “Laundering" money.
-Mark
Salceda
Hoping the sun would break through; beer bottles line the stone wall at this cafe/bar; flowers.
Rain started earlier than yesterday’s weather predicted. Thankful was near to my stopping place today. Another very short walk. With the leg feeling better I am walking as slowly as possible and still feel I’m maintaining a reasonable pace. -Cindy
Albergue Ultreia just before Arzúa
Pictures along the way. Tonight’s albergue is on a main road, yet the rooms are quiet and a small garden sitting area is sequestered from the sound. Loved the clothing centrifuge to wring out water from hand washing. Am making reservations each afternoon for the next night stay. -Cindy
The journey down from Mt Irago -Mark
Cruz de Ferro -Mark
Beautiful flowers along the way. Australian Alburgue and communal vegetarian meal that was awesome. I spoke at length with a woman from Russia on one side and a Finn on the other while Ken chatted with Australian mate. Nadine
The man responsible for the yellow arrows along the way, marking our path. You can smell them before you see them and Celtic village. Nadibe
Beautiful walk today and only 15 km. Ahhh. Nadine
Melide
Have seen these structures at all the farms, yet no idea their purpose; Sculpture in San Xulián; the Way; another interesting structure whose purpose is a mystery; bridge into Melide.
Melide is bigger than I thought – small city. And it’s market day today. Always makes finding one’s lodging more complicated. Thankfully the fruit lady helped with directions and was very accommodating when I asked her to speak slowly. Then there are the helpful signs advertising the albergue.
Thanks to Jessie for posting pics of my fur babies on FB! Looks like they are well cared for. Thank you everyone! 💕
.
-Cindy
Fun on the way up the mountain to Foncebadon
1) Cowboy bar at El Ganso
2)Scenery
3) Cowpoke Allison
4) Look closely
5) The view from Foncebadon
-Mark
Two misc shots
1) Town hall meeting with some folks in traditional Maragato costume.
2) Anew use for my hat while collecting laundry.
-Mark
The Astorga Cathedral and Gaudi “Bishop’s Palace”
The inside of the bishops palace was amazing.
-Mark
Today’s walk. Yes we walked up that mountain!
Nadine
Our day’s trip up the big hill 550 m and climbed to 1550 meters today. We are now in Galacia…cool historical area and the music is Celtic. Nadine
Palas de Rei
Scene from popular bar in Gonzar, interesting way marker, field.
Was not the plan to walk this far today. Twice as far as planned. Albergue La Fuente in Ligonde is closed Saturday and Sunday. Next on the list was full. Looked at a pensíon, but just couldn’t justify the price. I’ll be in Santiago long before I planned. Hmmmm, maybe an overnight to Finesterre (sp?). -Cindy
Various
1) A moment for Allison
2-3) David’s donativo fruit etc stand. This guy lives out here just to serve Pilgrims asking nothing in return. – Amazing
4) Pedro. He was here 3 years ago singing the same song.
-Mark
Playing “pilgrim” on our walk to Astorga this morning. -Mark
The new and the old.
Car show in Astorga
Astorga Cathedral.
-Mark
Portomarín
Today was cow country. I quickly learned to walk far behind – the flies were nasty. Spain has these giant black slugs – think 2.5-3" long; 100km left; beautiful scenery.
Very leisurely walk today. Lots of pics, too many from which to choose. Very special day. 😊 -Cindy
Rest day 1 in Astorga. Went a whopping 8mi today. It was wonderful. Spa treatment and massage this afternoon as we begin the Anniversary celebration (28yrs tomorrow) -Mark
Toughing it out at last night’s Albergue.
1) The foot spa
2) Allison roughing it on a hammock
3) The water in the foot spa was icy!
4) The sand walk. Felt awesome on tired toes.
-Mark
1) The Honoroso Bridge at Hopital de Obrigo.
Cindy already posted about this so just a pic as we passed.
2) Oddly, this “land”-scaping seemed to be intentional.
-Mark
Intentionally untitled to protect the innocent. – Mark
Sarria to Barbadelo
Scenes along the Way today. The man was sitting, watching male pilgrims walk by. When I approached, he stood. No idea what he said. I asked to take his photo. Fourth pic is from the porch at albergue Casa Barbadelo, sangria. 😊 -Cindy
Sarria via train
Way markers in the sidewalk from the train station. Not that they helped. Still asked directions a couple times. Last fellow was very helpful, directing me uphill. 🙂
-Cindy
The Cathedral in Astorga. Notice all the detail…and people, these are old, old relics that has stood the test of time. Praying for our relationship to stand the test of time…weather from the storms, adversity, self interest, sin, good times, beautiful weather. May we finish this race well to hear ,“ Well done good and faithful servant”. Nadine
Leon – what we saw as we passed through that is. -Mark
Our alburgue for the night in Foncebadon. Sometimes in Spain you feel like you have walked back in time hundreds of years. I love the simplicity of this place and really don’t want to leave it. Chatted with a man from the Netherlands who is looking to open an alburgue on the Camino primitive. He said he didn’t want to make a fortune but wanted to experience the Camino with those on pilgrimage by providing lodging for them. He had an interesting view of Americans. They have it all and everyone is fat. Isn’t that interesting? We spoke of government, healthcare, external beauty vs internal beauty. He said all he wants is to be happy. Interesting conversation. Nadine
Chocolate Museum in Astorga. Notice the break from hiking shoes. When we reach a town and shower, off come the boots and it’s time to let the feet rest and the toes breath. We sampled some yummy chocolate at the end of the tour. Nadine
Knights Templar Castle in Ponferrada
-Cindy
Along the way to Foncebadon. Nadine
Started in Rabanal to Monjarín
Started the day by busing to Rabanal, then hiking to Monjarín. Pics: the Way, path marker, ruins outside Foncebadón, me, La Cruz de Ferro, snack wagon unattended and donativo (so nice to come across these when I’m without food and needing a pick me up), the beautiful mountainside.
La Cruz de Ferro is a mountain of burdens left by those who have gone before me. One carries a token from home representing a burden and lays that burden down at the foot of the cross. Some are pictures, stones, I even saw a pen (the kind used with ink pot). As I traveled toward Monjarín my leg let me know it was time to stop. I looked up and there was a taxi – no kidding! God just knows. I was able to join the other lady and we made our way out if the mountains. Glad to be walking again, if shorter distances. -Cindy
Astorga with Cindy!! What a treat!
top left picture is Jesus drawing the sand" let him who is without sin cast the first stone". I love the stories in stone surrounding the entrance to the cathedrals.
Chocolate museum and dinner with Cindy in astorga. Fun meeting up again. Nadine
Cathedral in Leon. Wonderful! Nadine
1)Ah yes, the burger ranch….no, wait, perhaps that’s not the correct translation.
2)Oh, I do want to go to the Bar Elvis down the street in this town of Reliegos – Mark
The Way Today -Mark
The ½ way marker. -Mark
Astorga- day 2
Me outside the city walls with Bishop’s Palace within the wall; magnificent door to the cathedral; Roman funeral maker (couldn’t translate the Spanish) from inside the Bishop’s Palace that houses the Museos de los Caminos; last 3 pics – market day in Astorga.
Was on the leg without pack for 4 hours. It’s ok, not great, but will bus to Rabanal tomorrow to hike to La Cruz de Ferro and play the rest by ear. -Cindy
Astorga
Arrived by bus this morning. Leg still painful, so letting it rest. Bus arrived one end of city and hotel at the other. Some pics along the way. 17th century baroque facade of the Ayuntamiento, fabulous doors abound – this on the church St. Francis of Assisi and its bells, statue of perhaps a 20th century pilgrim, Roman ruins. -Cindy
The Way today. We put in a good 32.8km (20.4mi today) -feeling good. In a groove.
-Mark
Three interesting things
1) a Dovecote
2) No, these are not Hobbit houses, but rather bodegas or wine cellars built into the hill.
3) An arch in the Moritano style. Moritanos were the muslims that stayed after the reconquest and converted to Christianity.
-Mark
The Way -Mark
Festival in Hospital de Órbigo
Me trying to eat this massive gyro-looking thing, trying to get a pic of half the length of the 13th century bridge, entrance of the peregrinos (pilgrims), one of Don Suero’s challengers crossing the bridge, Don Suero, distilling in the 13th century – looks a bit like some Wilkes County stills today. 😁 -Cindy
Mediterranean breakfast
Fresh squeezed OJ, tea with milk, huge piece of toast with tomatoes, ham, and olive oil.
I took a bus to Astorga to rest the leg another night. I hope I can resist walking about the city…oops, already did that upon my arrival at 9am or so. So much to see! 🙂Bummed the chocolate museum is closed today. Only the Cathedral is open today.
Looking at the map, locate Plaza Mayor, I will stay at the Hotel Astvr Plaza.
-Cindy
Albergue Verde in Hospital de Órbigo
Exterior pics, hospitaleria – Yaeli from Israel, meditation & yoga room. Rested very well here. Alejandro, whom I believe owns and lives there looked at the leg and provided an ice bag. He also does massages. No, I didn’t have one.
This albergue, think hippies, commune, vegetarian, and well cared for.
-Cindy
. So groovy! Nadine
Grocery shopping! Nadine
. We stuck with the ham and cheese and bread. But we’ve been very adventurous with the prepared meals and everything had been fabulous. Sometimes we don’t even ask what it is! Nadine
The Roman Road and into the storm
-Nadine
1-2) The Cathedral in Villalcazar (home of the Virgin Blanca). Villalcazar was 2nd only to Santiago as a pilgrim destination in Spain.
3) Roses
4-5) A crèche and a cross at the monastery/Albergue we’re staying in tonight in Carrion de los Condes. Carrion de los Condes translates to “Flesh of Counts” and comes from a historical event where El Cid killed (and left to rot) several Counts from this town who had mistreated/raped his daughters. Ya just got to love history.
-Mark
Things you expect to see on Camino
1) The locks near Fromista
2-4) Pilgrim, pilgrim statues and tributes to pilgrims. -Mark
A typical Pilgrims dinner. Three courses + wine and water. I counted 14 nationalities present.
-Mark
1-2) One of my favorite villages from our 2014 Camino. Still beautiful.
3-4) Albergue life.
-Mark
Relics. This was what it was all about on the medieval Camino.
Shards of the one true cross, finger bones of saints, a lock of hair from Magdelana, etc.
-Mark
1) Albergue life
2-3) Storm is a-brewin’
-Mark
The Meseta.
The Meseta is special. It is hot and barren and yet full of beauty. The pilgrim traffic is reduced quite a bit since those that have time constraints often skip this bit (9 days) and as a result of all this, there is more peace.
I love taking to people about “why” they are here. For some this is a physical challenge and others it’s a tourist event. For many this however has deeper meaning and i most enjoy talking to these folks.
Sometimes there reasons are spiritual or religious (a time to draw closer to their creator). Some are just seeking something/anything and they can’t express why.
-Mark
1) I’d like a 1000 piece puzzle made of this picture for Christmas <hint>
2). We are here. (We’ll close to here anyway)
Hontanas.
First day in the Maseta, maybe a little like our plains with rolling hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Pics – a small church along the way, I very much like the houses with flower 🌺 pots attached (so pretty), the Maseta, Mark and Allison.
As Mark said to me after hiking a 30km plus day, a stupid long day – 31.5 km today. Arrived at original destination at 11am and pressed on after having lunch with M&A and Father Joyful from Santa Cruz…ok, after much contemplation about how to describe Joyful – think crack pot, with black robe, full beard, AND barefoot. Another 10km and we reached Hontanas.
Am enjoying company with M & A, but I will slow down again or bus ahead in a few days. -Cindy
Burgos Cathedral- spectacular – Mark
Day one on the Meseta. So beautiful that we walked 31 km from Burgos. Poppies are everywhere. Lovely walk. Nadine
Out of order…a few pics of us heading to Burgos
1) A long day begins at 5am
2) Nature Art
3) How do you like that terrain.
-Mark
Burgos #2
Top pic is a portion of a compass at the castle pointing to Boston 😁; little house not far from Cathedral; Mark and Allison.
Great to have the day. Blisters are healing – walked around most of the day without band aids/compeed. Great to celebrate Allison’s 29th bday with her. And Nadine’s 29th with her last night. -Cindy
Cindy eating… um…something. Good times together in Burgos. -Mark
Leaving Atapuerca into Burgos
Scenes hiking the Way yesterday, surprise meeting Ken and Nadine 😁; touring the magnificent Cathedral in Burgos.
Mark and Allison also in Burgos at same hotel. The three of us are staying an extra day… lots to do in this small city. I’d like to see a couple more museums. More later. -Cindy
Birthday in Burgos. Nadine
Burgos Cathedral. The largest in this region and it is beautiful. We stayed in a hotel tonight in this beautiful city, tired the Cathedral, had some chocolate… All is good. This morning we begin our journey into the Meseta. 5 days of very quiet walking away from cities. Buen Camino. Nadine
Burgos
.
Cathedral. Reunion with Cindy. -Nadine
1-2) Me and Allison
3) San Vitores and his head
4) Allison and the poppies
5) Wheat
6) More wheat
-Mark
Atapuerca
.
Walked in the mist most of the day. It was nice to have cool weather to walk. K & N, met Sari from Finland last night and walked a bit with her today. She said to say ‘hi’. Relaxing with a couple from Northern Ireland 🇮🇪. Last two pics from San Juan de Ortega. -Cindy
Beautiful Cathdral’s and magnificent art work. Most of the Cathedral are from the 12th century.. We slept in a 14th century church last night. Wonderful experience with communal meals with 15 different nationalities represented. Amazing and awesome. See Mark’s part for pictures. Lovely! Nadine
The way today. Cool, Misty. Second picture in church where we stayed, drying out clothes after walking in the rain. Nadine
Communal dinner at Granon. – Mark
Tosantos
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Church and bridge in Belorado. Accommodationsat Albergue San Francisco Asís, the upper room at the albergue. A very special place. Very emotional. -Cindy
Precious art at Santa Domingo de la Calzada. – Mark
1-2). Two views of the Reja (iron grill work). The extended caught my attention.
3) King David playing an instrument.
4) The face of Jesus (captured on the cloth during the walk to the cross) legend
5) Alligator
6) Saint Librada
Talas at Logrono, and the Cathedral. -Mark
Camino walk. Nadine
Afternoon Viana and Logrono
1) Endless Wheat – pick a few heads to snack on
2)Camino humor
3)Wine Country – Rioja
4-5) Viana on a Sunday afternoon
6) Entering Logrono
– Mark
Morning from Los Arcos to Torres Del Rio
1)Los Arcos
2)No end in sight
3)Inside the Knights Templar church in Torres Del Rio
4) Breakfast of champions. -Chocolate and coffee
-Mark
Grañón.
Along the way to Santo Domingo; bridge leaving Santo Domingo; tonight’s accommodations in the belfry of the church in Gañón at San Juan Bautista. It’s donativo/donation only with communal meal. Feet felt ok today. Each day I evaluate how far I can walk and stop where necessary. Ran into Slovenian gal, Arenata, whom I met some days ago. Funny how some people weave their way into and out of your life. Weather much more bearable today-partly sunny with a lovely breeze. Folks are saying rain is coming along with cooler temps. -Cindy
Breakfast. I’ve never eaten so many carbs in my life. Boy is it good 😊 Nadine
1) At Irache wine fountain. You read right…a wine fountain. Re: Allison and I…“Too cute for words”….I know.
2) Play acting perhaps
3) Irache monastery
4) Allison poking Monjardin
5) The “shoe” ritual.
-Mark
Camino Beauty today.
This is what. Pilgrims dinner looks like. Well this and loads of bread, water and wine. -Mark
Alburgue
, Nadine. Some have asked about where we sleep. When we arrive at an Alburgue you typically pay for your bed , remove your hiking shoes and place in a common area ( that smells quite pungent) . You are given a room location and specific bunk. Sometimes together, sometimes not. You empty your pack and find your shower great and head there to become somewhat human again. After the shower (which be may or may not be gender specific) you either have a pilgrimage dinner at be the Alburgue or head into town to walk around and find a place to purchase some food for the following day’s walk. . Back to the Alburgue if you’re in town . You FALL into bed around 830-900.
Nájera
Bused to Nájera. Toured the Monastery of Santa Maria Real with a lovely lady from Holland whom I met on the bus and the queue for the albergue.
There is a soccer match today and the hard core fans are already out. One bar closed for siesta, so they made their way to another. And we thought our sports fans were over the top. The match is at 9:30 pm and they started cheering around 2 pm.
Glad for the day off. Yes, feet have several blisters, but I am managing. Today they are drying out. Knees are in good shape. Back is ok. Rest of the body seems fine.
So what is an average day? Walking very early and with continued heat, probably starting 5am. Breakfast along the way usually tea and toast or pastry. A couple rest stops, one that will include lunch either purchased the day before or at a bar/cafe enroute. Trying to arrive by 1pm at that day’s stop as albergues fill up. Shower, laundry, rest, dinner. Early bedtime if possible. I must admit feeling a bit of a competition for a place to sleep. -Cindy
The long and winding road. The bread and the wine. Lots of symbolism here. Nadine
Misc beauty – Puenta de la Reina to Ciraquia
Surprise reunion with Ken and Nadine – Obanos and Puenta de la Reina
An early morning start (5am) to beat the heat. Leaving Pamplona, climbing Alto Perdon
– Mark
On the way to Los Arcos
Cross in the chapel at the monastery; bodegas Irache – the essence of the sign is that one can fortify oneself for the journey ahead by drinking the wine; Villa Mayor Monjardín; music along the way; near Los Arcos
Weather again extremely hot, near 90, but there was a more steady breeze, not that a breeze was much good without shade, and there isn’t any. I really understand the concept of siesta. Staying at Casa Abuela.
Awaiting the opening of the Pharmacia. Needs bandages, not Compeed as the blisters need to dry out. Getting on a bus tomorrow possibly to Najerra. I’ll know for sure when I arrive. I will miss Helma. 😢 -Cindy
Along the way to Estella
Cafe/bar, uncomplicated life, nuns at the monastery.- Cindy
Pamplona Cathedral
-Mark
Which is your favorite Allison ?
Cathedral Museum in Pamplona.
-Mark
Approaching Pamplona.
1) Allison and Nadine being interviewed for a women on Camino Blog.
2) Bridge at Trinidad De Aare
3) Magdalena Bridge into Pamplona
4) All of us. Said goodbye to K and N. Buen Camino guys. I’m sure we’ll see each other again along the way.
-Mark
Fav photos from today. Nadine
The chapel at the Albergue at Zalbaldika
The retablo
The bells (one of which we were allowed to ring (oldest bell in Navarre)
Messages left by Pilgrims.
– Mark
Allison taking time to “smell the roses”
Anonymous portion of “the way”
Nadine and Allison taking things seriously
Ducks
Allison feeding her belly and resting her toes.
– Mark
Morning Antics before Zubiri
– Mark
Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina
Pics: sunrise over Pamplona, statue is medieval pilgrims at Alto del Perdón; descent from there – no training can prepare one for this terrain; field outside Óbanos; pilgrim statue at entrance to Puente La Reina; bridge over the Arga River on the western side of Puente La Reina.
Today was quite hot. Helma and I are sitting in the shade at Bar Aloa having beer for me, coffee and cigarette for Helma. We toured the city after showering and laundry (washing machine – something I’ll indulge). Eating paella tonight. Staying at Estrella Guía, small, 12 beds. Unable to stay at Puente – all beds reserved. Even Helma reserved her bed for tonight.
– Cindy
Larrasoaña to Cizur Menor
Pics: the gang at the albergue last night: Terry, Helma, me, Sarah, Clara; Jesús, the albergue owner; bridge in Larrasoaña; Camino markings; entrance to albergue Mirabel Roncal; me buying Compeed (for blisters) from a vending machine. Currently, having beers and tapas with new friends from Vancouver, Luxembourg, and Australia. Feet are tired and I have a bad blister in bottom of pinky toe. Life is good.
-Cindy
Crossing the Pyrenees Into and above the clouds.
-Mark
St Jean, France. And a view from our first Alburgue. Gwen, “The hills are alive…”
-Nadine
Day 1. Crossing the Pyrenees.
Sunrise and Venus, Allison getting her first stamp, A and I reunited after my “mishap”, St Jean Pied de Port, a crazy flower, the Pyrenees, KNN’s first Pilgrims dinner.-Mark
Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña
Long day today, 26 kilometers. At noon in Zubiri my body was ready to move on another 5.3 km. The last two kilometers were tough. Gorgeous clear sunshine. Grateful the aerosol sun screen went through airport security.
The Way – its construction and materials are as diverse as the people sojourning. Many pilgrims from around the world. My cubicle mates last night were from Germany and Italy. Enrique set his goal to be in Pamplona today…almost 40 km. As I arrived in Larrasoaña I was joined by Terry from Taiwan. We were done walking and chose Hostel Bide Ederra…clean and small. Looking forward to dinner and an early night. Also met Helma from Holland.- Cindy
The last preparation step. Treating our clothes.
Finesterra, a funny sign, and The end of the earth (looking west) for those of you that wanted to know what it looks like!
Our first and last steps on Camino
And finally (for today), the view from our hotel. Wow!
Beautiful.
Our first views of the sea
Our first view of Finesterra.
Larry Gordon – thought of you.
The trail divides here. One way to the end of the earth and the other to Muxia where the stone ship bearing St James body was said to have landed.
We decided for Finesterra.
Thought this was the ocean at first. False alarm. Only a reservoir.
Lunch break. Resting toes and Allison’s new friend.
Dramatic skies.
The Finesterre Way (Fisterra is the Galician way to spell it).
Images of west Galicia. “Not how I envisioned Spain”. A refrain I seem to keep repeating.
Santiago – in the rear view mirror so to say.
Goodbye Santiago. Off to the end of the earth.
Our two composures when hungry. Alison graceful and composed … me, not as much.
No we didn’t eat octopus tonight.
Shopping. Allison was tempted, but “no” to this outfit.
Pilgrims mass, swinging of the Botafumeiro (originally used to fumigate the sweaty – and possibly disease ridden – pilgrims as well as it’s religious significance.
The Relics of St James the apostle (Santiago)
And Santiago Matamoros.
Brother Anthoni examining our credentials and issuing our Compostella.
Celebration dinner – thank you Allison for everything.
Mark’s promise fulfilled.
The Parador – Santiago
Views from the window in our room.
We made it! Four weeks and 1 day after setting off at St Jean Pied de Port, France and after a 50km (~31mi) trek into the city on the final day!
First view of Santiago. Entering the city. First view of Santiago cathedral – the end point of the pilgrimage for many.
Entering the “county” of Santiago. Getting very close now!
Eucalyptus forest nearing Santiago.
You’ve got to get up early on Camino.
Beauty on the way.
Pulpo!
Random
You see the strangest things.
Great sense of humor on the Camino.
Pilgrim’s meal and sharing your requests – what a cool place this has been.
The albergue volunteers, Camino mural, washing day (everyday), reception and the ceiling. So cool to be in this special albergue.
Street scenes in this “tough” neighborhood.
Albergue life.
From solitude to crowded.
The castle on the hill is connected with the Knights of St John. It used to be in the valley before they build the reservoir. (Portamarine)
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